Downspout Disconnection in Toronto

Posted on 19. Jul, 2011 by admin in Uncategorized

“During heavy rainfall, sewers become overloaded, increasing the risk of basement flooding and releasing polluted rainwater into our local waterways.  To help solve the problem, the City will soon require all property owners to disconnect their downspouts from the sewer system.”

The bylaw is taking effect on November 20, 2011 for the “core area” of the city, with the other phases rolling out in subsequent years.   Visit the city’s website for more information about the program and check out this map to see how your property is affected.

Mould: Ignoring it makes it worse

Posted on 10. Jun, 2011 by admin in Uncategorized

Recently we had clients whose bedroom was in their basement.  We were called in after the insurance company and mould remediation company had come and gone.

Though the remediation company did a great job on the walls of the basement, it still smelled strongly of mould.  Upon investigation we found that at some point the basement had been partially lowered.  Attention was not paid to critical joints and the result was a subfloor that was almost completely rotted through.

This had obviously been an issue for years – it’s no small wonder that the couple exhibited allergy/respiratory symptoms that would clear up by midday when at work.

The idea that a basement is damp or moudly is “OK because it’s a basement, afterall” is not right.

As homeowners make the rest of their homes more efficient and ‘tight’, the basement has nowhere to ventilate except into the rest of the house – making the air quality inside a house worse than outside.

Ignoring your basement doesn’t make it go away.

Click on the links below to be directed to related information:

Health Canada on Mould

City of Toronto Mould Fact Sheet

Beaches Easter Parade: The Return of the Bunny Truck!

Posted on 27. May, 2011 by admin in blog, News, Press

Stonehenge Foundations was a proud contributor again this year to the Beaches Easter Parade.

Once again, we sponsored the local high school marching band – they always put on a phenomenal show!   An amazing 10,000 copies of our Beach Activity & Colouring Book were handed out to kids of all ages along the parade route.  And of course, we heralded the return of The Bunny Truck!

Past winner of the Best Float award, we pumped up this year’s bunny truck and float with more details and we’re looking forward to next year – this bunny only gets bigger and better.

Of course, it wouldn’t have been possible without the help of our family, friends and a team of volunteers.   Special thanks also goes out to our advertisers – local businesses that picked up small ads in the colouring book to help offset the printing costs for 10,000 copies.

See you next year!

Steps We Often Take to Repair & Waterproof Foundations

Posted on 22. May, 2011 by admin in blog

We are not a crack repair company.  We do so much more when comes to repairing and waterproofing a home’s foundation.   When we are done work on a customer’s foundation, we want to walk away knowing there will never ever be another issue with their foundation.

Here are often the items and/or steps we take to permanently fix your basement’s foundation.

Soil Stabilization
In our case, we treat soil with non-toxic products to increase the mass of the ground. This is used to eliminate ground voids, to impede water absorption and movement through soil.

Crack Injection
There are two methods of crack injection — epoxy and polyurethane.

Epoxy: is slow setting to allow epoxy to flow into micro cracks, though structurally as strong or stronger than the concrete that surrounds it in compression.

Polyurethane: is fast setting — it foams almost immediately, can be used on cracks that are actively leaking and is elastomeric (that is it has the ability to expand or contract with the crack without loosing its bond to the crack). It’s the usual choice in residential waterproofing.

Under pressure it expands up to 20 times, reacts with water and displaces water.

Excavations
Due to limited property sizes in the Beach and surrounding areas, and a respect for our neighbours, we realize that the work we perform must be done in an environmentally conscious manner.   We utilize whatever digging technique is best for the situation, by machine, by hydro evacuation and of course by hand.

Protection for Area
Due to limited property sizes in Toronto and surrounding areas, and a respect for our neighbours, we realize that the work we perform must be done in an environmentally conscious manner. We utilize whatever digging technique is best for the situation, by machine, by hydro evacuation and of course by hand.

Windows and Window Wells
A window well is typically made of galvanized steel which acts to insulate a window that is below grade from moisture. The window well should fit tightly to the foundation wall and be kept free of plant material which could lead to root invasion.

When basement window wells fill with water, it normally suggests that there is poor surface grading. The ground slope must be adjusted so as to direct water away from the home; it is recommended the pitch be about 1 vertical inch per linear foot. If this is not effective, it may require raising the window well.

Underpinning / Benching
Underpinning is the method of strengthening weak foundations or the method of placing an additional foundation underneath an existing foundation to allow a basement floor to be lowered.

French Drain or Dry Pit
Not named after the French, but a person named French who first documented it’s usage in farm irrigation and water management in 1859. It is a trench, ditch or pit that is dug and then filled with a clean gravel or stone. It is used for both collecting and diverting water away from a wet area. It can also be used to collect water at times of high and fast accumulation, such as rainstorms, allowing the water to percolate into the ground in a controlled fashion.

Using Thermal Imaging
A thermal imaging camera is capable of capturing radiation in the infra red spectrum. All objects release this radiation in the form of heat. It is therefore possible to ‘see’ into walls detecting wet areas.  We use thermal image technology to help make educated decisions on what needs to be done and to check the work we have done has remedied the foundation challenges.

Why We Insulate?
Roughly 30% of heat loss in a home is through a non-insulated foundation. Rigid insulation helps protect waterproofing membranes. It also reduces or eliminates freeze thaw cycle damage, protects against ad freezing, helps protect shallow footings and aids in your foundation becoming a thermal mass (protection against temperature fluctuations as masonry or concrete walls tend to heat and cool slowly).

Why we Disconnect Most Downspouts
Most of eastern Toronto will be required to disconnect their downspouts from municipal sewers by 2010, unless granted an exclusion by the city.

The benefit to disconnecting downspouts — most notably to ones at the rear of the house — is that even with diligence, they tend to collect organic material such as leaves, maple keys, acorns, etc. that travel down the downspout and into the sewer lines, beneath the basement floor, where they can create a blockage over time.  In many older homes, the downspout connects to a clay pipe which is part of the home’s sewage system.  The clay pipe is particularly susceptible to the freeze-thaw cycle as it travels through the ground frost area.  Over time the pipes tend to break down,  providing access for roots and depositing the collected material from the roof.

The problem in disconnecting downspouts is that most properties have not been designed to accommodate the load of water that has been collected from their roofs and that will be deposited on their properties.  It is critical that when the downspouts are disconnected that they are redirected away from a home in an appropriate manner.

Compacting in Layers Is Essential to a Long Lasting Foundation Repair
As the clean fill is replaced in the excavation, it must be compacted in layers. If the fill is not compacted, it will settle over time and create a large depression around the home, allowing water to pool near the foundation.

What are Pier Systems and Why We Use This System?
Pier systems are designed to stabilize your home’s foundation and lift the structure back to a level place. Piers have a high tolerance to buckling and are capable of penetrating deep into the ground. Pier systems effectively transfer the weight of the structure from unstable soil to a sound base.

We Use Elastomeric
Elastomeric is a property of a liquid applied coating that is used on the exterior of the foundation. When cured it resembles a rubber-like, waterproof finish that is able to span small cracks that develop in the foundation and still maintain its integrity. This type of coating is typically used to waterproof concrete, brick and block foundation walls.

We Use Carbon Fiber Too
Carbon Fiber technology is widely used in industries such as aerospace, construction and the military. This technology uses an epoxy that eternally binds the carbon fibers both on the surface and to each other. Even under tremendous pressure, breaking, bending, cracking or stretching will not occur. In foundation repair, carbon fibers are used to stabilize bowing walls and some cracks.

We Make Sure Everything is Set-up To Prevent Future Termites
Termites are attracted to moisture. Preventing moisture from accumulating near the foundation of the home is the first step in deterring the problem. Keep items such as pipes and air conditioners in good working condition as they all reside near the foundation walls. Ensuring that the ground next to the foundation wall is properly sloped to move water away from the home is also critical. Lastly, maintain downspouts and gutters so that water build up is avoided.

Air Sealing ALL Cracks
Outside air can be drawn in through basement cracks, causing something called ‘The Chimney Effect’. Circulating hot air generated by the furnace will eventually make its way to the attic via leaks. Likewise, outside cooler air will enter the basement through leaks and cracks, to replace the displaced air. This air traveling up through the home can also carry moist air and mould spores, leading to poor quality air within the home. In general, basement windows should remain closed.  Sealing cracks and joints are best accomplished by using foams. The primary tools of the trade are expanding foams, non-expanding foams, caulk, insulation, and various types of weather-stripping.

Phone (416) 467-6735 or Click Here for a No Obligation Free Estimate

Causes of Foundation Failure

Posted on 22. May, 2011 by admin in blog

There are many, many things that can cause a foundation to fail.   We put together a list of usual suspects.  Let us know in the comment section below if you have any questions.

Design
Poor design from the drawing stage is a major contributor to heightened foundation deterioration.

Materials
Proper material selection for a home’s foundation is important. Once selected, the materials must be used in a manner that they were designed for. Modern building materials are usually fabricated under controlled conditions, reducing the risk for failure.
Older materials may have been made onsite, using improper base materials or incorrect proportions. Old poured-in- place concrete is an excellent example of a great idea that was often incorrectly made. Improper amounts of cement powder and the wrong types of sand are examples of incorrect proportions, eventually leading to product failure.

Environment
Whatever the foundation is constructed of, it should be protected from the environment it resides in. Freeze-thaw cycles and water are two critical factors that have to be properly dealt with.

Workmanship
Poor mixing, incorrect water-cement ratios, inadequate strength or durability, poor curing techniques, premature form stripping, poor compaction (honeycomb voids), and very permeable concrete put weakness and lowered durability as results for all.

Weathering
Weathering cannot be stopped, though it can be significantly slowed. It is important to address the foundation system as a whole and not just divert a problem from one area to another.

Other Things That Can Go Wrong That Can Cause Foundation Failure

Surface Voids
Surface voids are the cavities or slight holes that materialize on the exterior of concrete. Surface voids are caused by decaying mortar and cement, water damage, improper installation or burrowing animals.

Soil Conditions
Foundation problems can be caused by constantly shifting conditions of the soils that surround the home. Clay soil for example, contracts and expands with varying levels of moisture. Clay expands when exposed to greater moisture and contracts as it dries. This will ultimately cause foundation cracks.

Foundation wellness is a delicate balance of proper soil conditions. Large trees and plants have the ability to extract too much moisture from the soil and improper drainage can cause heavily saturated soil to cause problems as well.

Surface Drainage
A proper and well thought out surface drainage plan cannot be stressed enough. It is critical to keep as much surface water away from the foundation as possible. This specifically includes downspouts. The City of Toronto has promised to begin enforcing their 2010 downspout disconnection directive. As these downspouts are disconnected, it is critical that the collected water from a home’s roof is diverted away from a home’s foundation. Bear in mind, it is illegal to divert the water towards a neighbour’s property. No matter how well a home is waterproofed, it will not be able to sustain itself against a constant head of water pressing against it. Link to the city of Toronto website on disconnecting downspouts

Penetrations
Traditionally, great care has not been applied when installing water, gas and drainage pipes through the footing or foundation. In many cases they are shattered through without adequate repair from both sides.

Roots
Tree roots can negatively affect a home’s foundation. It is important to gauge the distance between the tree and the foundation wall, as the closer the proximity, the greater the risk. It must be noted that not all tree roots damage foundation walls. Some roots simply turn away when confronted with the challenge. The less moisture present in the soil surrounding your foundation wall, the more likely a tree root will look elsewhere for a water supply.

Tree roots though can find their way into vacant cracks in a wall and gradually compel the opening to spread. It is at this point when water can enter the home.

Downspouts
The main function of a downspout is to divert water away from the home. Downspouts are critical in protecting the home’s roof, siding and foundation from water damage. Attaching connectors and extenders to your downspout will aid in the prevention of soil erosion, foundation damage and flooding near the house.

Legislation imposed by Toronto City Council in 2007 approved mandatory downspout disconnection for the combined sewer service areas of the City of Toronto. This bylaw requires homeowners who live within the affected areas to disconnect their home’s downspout from the City’s sewer system by 2010.

The benefit to disconnecting downspouts, most notably to ones at the rear of the house, is that they tend to collect organic material. Leaves, maple keys, acorns, etc. travel down the downspout and into the sewer lines beneath the basement floor, and can create a blockage over time. In many older homes the downspout connects to a clay pipe which is part of the home’s sewage system.  The clay pipe is particularly susceptible to the freeze-thaw cycle as it travels through the ground frost area. Over time the pipes tend to break down, providing access for roots and deposits collected from the roof.

The problem in disconnecting downspouts is that most properties have not been designed to accommodate the load of water that has been collected from their roofs and will be deposited on their properties. It is critical that when the downspouts are disconnected that they are redirected away from a home in an appropriate manner.

Differential Settlement
Differential Settlement is loosened or previously disrupted soil consolidating over time due to weight. The most famous example is ‘The Leaning Tower of Pisa’, whose foundation is composed of saturated clay soil, therefore causing the ‘tilt’.

In urban settings, differential settlement is usually caused by building on unsound soil or by disrupting soil underneath a foundation or where a foundation is to be built.

Ad Freezing
Ad freezing is the method whereby an entity adheres to another through the action of ice fastening. As soil around a home freezes and expands, it is possible for the ice to grab the surface of a foundation and damage it.

Backfill
Backfilling is the replacement of the excavated material. Any backfill material should be free of roots, stones and debris that could prevent proper compaction. If the excavated material is contaminated, it should not be used and replaced with material that properly drains and does not store water.

It is important to replace any excavated fill in layers that are compacted, so as to reduce the amount that the fill settles. This helps maintain the grading around a home and prevent depressions that direct water towards a homes foundation.

Repairing the Repair
Repairing work that others have previously done is unfortunate, though very common. In most cases the work was done by the well intentioned, though unpracticed. Most failures stem from a good product being used in the wrong situation or in an incorrect way.

Thermal Shocks
All untreated masonry and concrete absorbs water. Water naturally expands as it freezes, close to 10%. As the water freezes, it stresses the brick or concrete that it resides in. It is the expansion of various amounts that causes difficulties in the concrete’s stability. Eventually, this pressure overcomes the strength of the material, causing cracks to form and eventually overall failure.

Vermin
The potential of damage to a home’s foundation as a result of vermin is a very real scenario. Nesting and gnawing of mice, rats, insects and fungi can cause damage to foundation walls and the insulating system surrounding it.

Expansive Soils
Often referred to as ‘Bentonite’, expansive soils possess high clay content that is able to absorb large quantities of moisture and thereby swell. On the other hand, with a lack of moisture the process can contract. The drastic progression of contraction and expansion can cause a structure’s foundation to shift unevenly and lift.

Hydrostatic Pressure
This is the pressure point in a liquid at rest, resulting from the load of the fluid which sits on top of it. Hydrostatic pressure forces water into the foundation through any cracks or masonry decay. When water seepage gets deep in a basement, there is a good chance that a high water table exists. This is the level whereby standing water exists underground.

Increases and decreases in precipitation will change the water table levels. Typically, builders install drain systems to help prevent the water table from rising higher than the beginning of the foundation. This also provides reprieve of hydrostatic pressure. If the water table can be controlled, there is a good chance you can prevent water from leaking into the basement.

Phone (416) 467-6735 or Click Here for a No Obligation Free Estimate

Typical Foundation Problems

Posted on 22. May, 2011 by admin in blog

After being in the foundation repair business for over 20 years, we just about seen it all.  Here is a list of the most common foundation problems we have seen over the years.

Most Common Problems With Brick Foundations
The two most common problems with brick foundations are the porosity of the brick (how much moisture a brick can absorb) and the ‘decay’ of the mortar. Both of these factors encourage damage through exposure to frost cycles and roots searching for moisture.

Most Common Problems with Block Foundations
Concrete blocks used in construction are normally hollow. If the mortar that connects the blocks degrades in any one area, it allows water to fill up the empty cavity of the block. It then travels into surrounding block cavities until the water finds a way out. Water would be able to exit either by evaporation through walls into the basement or through a joint that has an active leak.

Most Common Problems With Modern Poured Concrete Walls
There are significant differences between modern poured walls and walls constructed 80 years ago. Older walls were constructed in short lifts over a number of days using concrete mixed onsite and occasionally using materials found onsite. At that time, these techniques were acceptable though they do not enjoy the longevity of modern walls we see today. They often fail at the joint between the various lifts or within a particular lift that was not properly mixed or placed. Problems in modern poured walls almost always stem from improper techniques employed from workers onsite. It simply comes down to the abilities and attention to detail employed from the worker ‘holding the shovel’.

Cracks

Horizontal Cracks Near the Bottom of the Wall.   These types of cracks result from a great load or pressure being put on the foundation or wall from the side. The crack is an indication that there will be serious structural problems if not addressed from both the inside and outside of the basement. Generally the pressure in our area is due to hydrostatic pressure or frost. The symptom (the crack) can be easily fixed, but the cause is what should be fixed in this case. Pressure must be permanently released on the outside of the foundation wall and the wall may require structural reinforcement.

If you have horizontal cracks near the top of the wall it’s usually caused by Frost Pressure or Vehicle Loading.

If you have vertical cracks (Cracks Formed on a 45° Angle) are usually formed as a result of differential settlement. These cracks are quite common and differ depending on the size and ‘growth’ rate.  The main problem vertical cracks present is allowing water a direct route into the home.

Crack control joints
In terms of foundation walls, Control joints are planned vertical wall separations. Essentially they separate the wall into individual panels.  Should cracks occur it will encourage the concrete to crack in a planned pattern.  Failure to utilize control joints will allow the concrete to crack in less stable areas such as around windows and door openings.  This can cause further weakening and allow water an opening into the basement.

Bowing Walls
Bowing walls are the result of a great force pushing against the wall, such as frost or hydrostatic pressure. Basement walls typically begin to bow before cracks become visible. Any bowing at all is an indication of a weakened structure. Brick, block and concrete walls are equally as vulnerable to bowing and cracking. This is a serious issue that could cause major structural problems and must be dealt with immediately.

Surface Drainage / Grading
Proper and thought out surface drainage cannot be stressed enough. It is critical to keep as much surface water away from the foundation. This specifically includes downspouts. The city has promised to begin enforcing their 2010 downspout disconnection directive. As these downspouts are disconnected, it is critical that the collected water from a home’s roof is diverted away from a home’s foundation. Bear in mind that it is illegal to divert the water towards a neighbour’s property. No matter how well a home is waterproofed, it will not be able to sustain itself against a constant head of water pressing against it.

Vermin and Termites
In certain sectors of eastern Toronto, termites are prevalent. Subterranean dwelling, they do not necessarily require wood-soil contact. Unfortunately cracks and fissures within a foundation are sufficient for their entry into the home. Simply put above grade fissures and voids are also possible entry points to a home.

Downspouts
A home’s roof is a very large area that sheds all of its water. Gutters and downspouts are a major component of every home’s design, providing proper rain water drainage and diversion. If improperly placed, unmaintained or in disrepair, over time the consequences on your home’s foundation can be catastrophic.

Effloresence (Salt Damage)
Salt itself does not damage concrete, but it multiplies the amount of freeze-thaw cycles occurring. Salt carried into the concrete by moisture will attack any unprotected steel reinforcement within the material, causing the steel to rust, expand and break the concrete.

Leaks
Three things are required for a leak: water, a force moving the water in and a hole through which the water can pass. Removing any one of these three will stop the leak.  Types of forces: Gravity, Kinetic, Surface tension, capillary and pressure difference.  Holes can be visible or invisible to the naked eye.

Mould
Mould is naturally occurring everywhere. There are various types of mould, some which are benign and some of which are unhealthy to people, pets, and are capable of damaging wood and structure. Mould needs moisture to grow. Dry spells can cause mould to go dormant and then begin again with the onset of new moisture. This can appear that the mould came from ‘nowhere’. Removing the mould is a stop gap measure that does not actually solve the problem.

Spalling
Spalling is the deterioration of the surface of a brick or concrete. The main cause is usually water, either through repeated freeze-thaw cycles or from direct exposure such as downspouts. Deterioration can also be caused by: excessive vapour transmission traveling through the brick towards the outside, using a surface sealant that traps moisture behind the surface and thereby not allowing the brick to breath naturally through changes in weather, aggressive or frequent pressure washing and chemical cleaning may also lead to the deterioration of the outer shell thereby increasing the amount of water that the brick can absorb and hastening damage through freeze – thaw cycles. Once a brick or concrete begins to lose its surface integrity, the speed of deterioration will increase exponentially.

Concrete Deterioration
Though concrete is an excellent building material there are a number of different causes for its deterioration. The most common is frost cycles.

Alkali – aggregate deterioration by itself is not usually enough for structural failure, though it can be a strong contributing factor. It normally takes 5 to 10 years to manifest itself and is progressive. What happens is that the alkalis in cement (hydroxyl ions OH-) react with some types of aggregates within the concrete. The reaction forms micro cracks that allow water a clear route to penetrate the concrete and accelerate the severity of damage from the freeze-thaw cycle.

Radon
Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas whose origins begin with Uranium. The gas is omitted from the soil and can appear in basements, ground floors and on occasion, in ground water.
Air pressure inside your home is typically lower than pressure in the soil surrounding your home’s foundation. This variance in pressure can draw radon in through foundation cracks and other openings. Radon possesses a greater risk when entering your home via the soil, versus through your water supply.

Phone (416) 467-6735 or Click Here for a No Obligation Free Estimate

How Foundations Should Be Built

Posted on 22. May, 2011 by admin in blog

A foundation is the section of a home’s structure which transfers the weight of a home to the ground underneath.

Webster’s Dictionary defines it as:

“Foundation: an underlying base or support; especially:  the whole masonry substructure of a building.”

Footings
The enlarged base of foundation walls that distributes the load or weight of home on a wider area of ground or onto supporting piles. Footings can be made of brick, block, poured concrete, rubble or there could be no footing at all.

Foundation Wall
Though there are many ways of constructing a home’s foundation, there are three primary types of foundations in Toronto: Brick, concrete block and poured concrete. Historically the methods of construction varied from builder to builder as standards for construction and inspection were not as regulated.

Brick
Normally a special type of brick was used below ground that was more resistant to moisture. Usually two separate brick walls were built with an air gap between them. The air gap allowed any moisture that penetrated the first layer to run down the cavity before penetrating the second layer. Mortar used between the bricks both below and above grade should be weaker than the bricks themselves to allow for the bricks to swell with moisture. The mortar is sacrificial in order to protect the integrity of the brick. It is common to have to replace the mortar in older brick homes, especially below grade.

Concrete Poured in Place
Concrete is a very old building material made up of lime and aggregate. Modern concrete is usually mixed to consistent and exacting standards. Various additives can be used to change the curing time, final strength and consistency. Historically it was mixed in batches onsite and poured in stages or lifts, allowing sufficient setting time between each lift. General Knowledge of concrete’s characteristics varied from builder to builder and from worker to worker. Unfortunately strict standards did not exist that were uniformly adhered to. Great variance can be seen from lift to lift in almost all older poured concrete foundations. Where one layer seems completely sound, another may be weak and in disrepair due to poor consolidation, improper proportions of cement, the wrong type of aggregate or the concrete contaminated with impurities.

Concrete Block
A newer form of foundation emerged as concrete technology improved. Since the blocks were made in a factory, better quality standards could be met in a controlled environment. Unfortunately they lost their advantage if improperly installed or installed with poor quality mortar. The difficulty with concrete block foundations is that the blocks themselves are hollow. Should the mortar degrade in any one place, it allows water to enter and travel from hollow cavity to hollow cavity until the water finds an escape into the inside of the basement. If the leaking hole is plugged in the basement, the water will continue to accumulate within the cavities of the wall until the water finds another place from which it can escape.

Concrete Poured in Place – Modern
Normally Portland cement is used. Thorough research and testing have allowed standards and consistency to improve. Many different forming methods are used, from insulated forms that are left on to wooden and plastic forms that are stripped off once the concrete has cured. Modern foundation failure can be usually attributed to error in installation or construction. With proper installation, monolithic poured in place foundations are ideal.

Air Gap membrane / Drain board
Solid sheet membrane that is used to direct water away from the foundation before it comes into contact with the surface of the foundation. The rippled shape of the membrane allows air to circulate behind the membrane and evaporate any moisture that has accumulated. The benefit of the membrane is that it is able to span any future cracks that may develop in the foundation. The disadvantage in the product is the difficulty in installation on irregular shapes and surfaces. Furthermore, if used as the primary method of waterproofing it is essential that joints between sheet section are thoroughly sealed.

Damp Proofing
The minimum coating that is usually placed on a structure’s foundation is one or two coats of tar. This is not a waterproofing. Its purpose is to act as a barrier that slows down moisture entering a home. Damp proofing will not stretch to span any future cracking, nor will it withstand hydrostatic pressure.

Parging
Parging is the the process of applying a cementitious coating to the foundation filling cracks, voids and smoothing irregularities. This prepares the surface for waterproofing. An additional benefit of a smooth surface is it helps prevent ad-freezing. Please see ad-freezing below.

Waterproofing
Stonehenge believes in a multi- layer approach to waterproofing. Once the foundation surface has been properly repaired, a waterproof yet breathable cementitious coating is applied. This coating is UV stable, no VOC and monolithic in nature — as in, it has no seams or joints. The second layer is an elastomeric coating, waterproof, breathable, monolithic with the added benefit that it can span hairline cracking, were it to occur. Both of these products have no VOCs and are environmentally stable.

Wall Drainage
Weeping tile – typically four inch diameter perforated pipe that is covered by a light gauge textile that collects water and directs it to a dry-pit, sump pump or, where allowed, to city drains.
Clear Gravel – usually ¾ inch gravel that has been washed and screened for size. The gravel is placed around and above the weeping tile. It has spaces in between each piece of stone allowing the fast and free accumulation of large amounts of water before it drained away by the weeping tile.
Geotextile – heavy duty fabric that is rot resistant, it is used to strain silt, while allowing water to freely pass. The fabric encompasses the gravel and weeping tile.

Compaction and Grading
As the clean fill is replaced in the excavation it must be compacted in layers. If the fill is not compacted, it will settle over time and create a large depression surrounding the home.

Phone (416) 467-6735 or Click Here for a No Obligation Free Estimate

7 Things That Set Us Apart From Other Foundation Repair Companies

Posted on 21. May, 2011 by admin in services

Fixing a foundation takes years of experience to do it right.  Often (unfortunately) we are fixing other contractors work.   We have over 20 years experience fixing home’s foundations in Toronto and in that time we have our own unique formula for fixing a foundation permanently.

Here is our formula:

One: Waterproofing From the Inside

Generally, a reasonable concept or idea. This technique may be suitable in some cases, however, this method addresses the symptoms but ignores the cause. In this case, water is allowed to enter the home through the foundation and then is diverted to a sump pump and released back outside. It allows water to continue deteriorating the foundation. Very similar to a leaking roof, the homeowner is compelled to erect a tent inside the home to keep your living area dry, while wet wood and plaster continues to deteriorate within your home. This method should only be used as a last resort — your foundation wall should not perform like a sieve.

Two: Waterproofing

We use products that waterproof, not just damp proof. In waterproofing, we allow for the building to be able to breath. It is no solution to trap moisture in a basement. Our coating selection is made on a case-by-case basis and we always prefer to select a low or no VOC breathable, except in the most extreme circumstances. When given the opportunity, we exceed Canada building code requirements for waterproofing. Permeable materials – differing perm rates

Three: Soil Stabilization

Where there might be a case of difficulty of access or a matter of limiting the scope of a project, we employ various soil stabilization techniques. In stabilizing the soil, we are increasing its compressive strength, solidifying loose material / filling cavities and decreasing the overall permeability of the soil.

Four: Crack Injection

There are two methods of crack injection — epoxy and polyurethane.

Epoxy

Epoxy is slow setting to allow for movement into micro cracks. Though structurally as strong as the concrete that surrounds it, it does not have the ability to span future cracks. For a waterproof foundation where there are structural concerns, concrete epoxy is applied to weld the cracks together.

Polyurethane Foam Injection

Polyurethane is fast setting and foams almost immediately upon release. It can be used on cracks that are actively leaking and is elastomeric (it has the ability to expand or contract with the crack without losing its bond to the break). Polyurethane is typically employed on residential properties requiring waterproofing. This material under pressure expands up to 20 times and reacts with and displaces water.

Five: Surface Drainage

A proper and well thought out surface drainage plan cannot be stressed enough. It is critical to keep as much surface water away from the foundation as possible. This specifically includes downspouts. The City of Toronto has promised to begin enforcing their 2010 downspout disconnection directive. As these downspouts are disconnected, it is critical that the collected water from a home’s roof is diverted away from a home’s foundation. Bear in mind, it is illegal to divert the water towards a neighbour’s property. No matter how well a home is waterproofed, it will not be able to sustain itself against a constant head of water pressing against it. For more information on disconnecting downspouts: http://www.toronto.ca/water/protecting_quality/downspout.htm

Six: Flir Technology

The latest addition to Stonehenge Foundations is the ‘Flir B200 Infrared Thermography’ camera. This technology allows us to properly assess problem areas that the human eye cannot detect. It will essentially tell us where the differing temperatures are located throughout walls and floors. This will evidently lead us to the source. We are the first in the Beach to invest in this level of Foundation Technology to ensure the job is done efficiently, accurately and properly the first time.

Seven: Restoration

It is not enough to just waterproof on the outside or, worse, permit water to move into the basement and then redirect it back outside again. As water moves through any object, it will erode it. It is very important that any degraded area in the foundation is properly repaired and restored to its previous strength. Not just patched and covered up. We will reconstruct the area to its original appearance and structural integrity, or better

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Stonehenge Foundations Featured in the Globe and Mail

Posted on 21. May, 2011 by admin in News, Press

This article about our business was written by ERIC REGULY and published by the Globe and Mail in Oct 2009.   The original article can be found here.   Eric is one of Toronto’s most respected journalists and we had the pleasure of helping him and his family out with a foundation challenge on their house.

Read the article below and then lets know your thoughts in the comment section.   Let us know if you are having this same foundation challenge…?

That sinking feeling…

We bought a wreck of a house in Toronto’s Beach neighbourhood a decade ago. Five years later an expensive renovation turned it into our dream house, or so we thought. What was visible was pleasing to the eye. But what we couldn’t see – the foundations – was ugly, the equivalent of an athlete with bone disease. In truth, the house was in danger of collapse, if not quite then, certainly within a few years.

We knew something was wrong, of course. The basement leaked. Over the years, the trickles turned into rivulets, the rivulets into rivers. During particularly heavy rain storms, my wife and I would attack the incoming tide with water with towels, sponges, squeegees and a Shop-Vac. Then the rains would stop, the basement would dry out and we went back into denial.

Paul Adamson, co-owner of Stonehenge Design & Build, a landscaping company with a foundation-repair division run by his partner Gundars Briedis, jolted us out of denial. He happened to be visiting when the rains came. “You’ve got a big problem here,” he said.

A few days later the Stonehenge lads dug an inspection trench to the foot of the house’s foundations. What they saw came as no surprise to them: Rotting bricks and mortar, holes ranging from the small to the gaping, roots on the verge of pushing into the basement.

The double-brick foundations, installed in 1919, were at the end of their useful life.

Foundations don’t last forever. Paul says two thirds or more of the houses built between 1900 and 1935 in the areas he knows – the Beach, Riverdale, East York – have foundation problems, whether or not the owners realize it. “In some of these houses, we can break through the foundations with our bare hands,” he says. “I’ve seen houses in danger of collapse.”

The deterioration rate is accelerating, he says, because of climate change. Years ago Toronto and other southern Canadian cities would typically go through one winter freeze-thaw cycle. Now the crazy weather patterns might produce several. Freezing water expands, damaging the foundation. If a foundation gets hit with three freeze-thaw cycles in a single winter, the damage occurs three times faster.

Some house owners make the mistake of attacking the problem from the inside. They might slap a thick waterproof paint on the interior basement walls or, worse, install a vapour barrier between the foundation and the drywall. Neither allows the foundation to breathe. Stonehenge has ripped down vapour barriers only to be confronted with gruesome amounts of black mould, a potential health hazard.

Surgery had to be performed on our sorry beast of a house. A trench has been dug around the house’s perimeter so the foundations can be repaired. It is hard, labour-intensive work and not cheap. Paul says typical repair jobs cost between $15,000 and $35,000 (ours came in near the upper end of this range). But the terminal cases, where the foundations are in danger of crumbling, can cost $100,000 or more.

Foundation-repair companies offer various cures. Stonehenge, which has been repairing basements for a dozen years, typically uses a four- or five-stage process, depending on the severity of the damage.

After the trench is dug, the worst bricks are replaced. A saw with a diamond blade is used to clear out the first half-inch of mortar between the bricks. The joints are filled with new mortar. Step two is the application of a special waterproofing cement over the bricks. The cement is a marvel – it allows moisture to escape, but not enter. Step three is the application of a second waterproofing material, in this case a latex, over the cement layer.

Installing “dimple board” comes next. The board, about half an inch thick, is yet another layer of waterproofing. The fifth, and last, step is a layer of standard, two-inch foam insulation that is designed to take edge off the freeze-thaw cycles. The whole process takes about seven working days, Paul says, though rain can or cold weather will slow things down.

Our trench job was done in two stages, the first two years ago, to spread out the cost. Our basement is now dry. In fact it was one of the few basements on the street to remain dry in the vicious rain storms of the last year. Because it’s not perennially damp, it doesn’t smell like a cave with corpse inside.

I now agree with Paul. Buying a house without having the foundations inspected is at best risky, at worst moronic. Had I known enough to have had an inspection hole dug before we made the offer, I would never have bought the house. The trouble is, most house inspectors do not offer that service. You would have to hire a foundation-repair company. Some owners might not allow an inspection hole to be dug. If they don’t, any suspicions you have about the quality of the foundations might be justified. Remember, the oldest houses are more likely than not to be the victims of a subterranean massacre.

While foundation repair is not cheap, waiting years to get the job done does not make the price go down; we learned that the hard way. The good news, other than having a dry basement, is resale value. When we sell the house at some point down the road, we will ensure an inspection hole is on display to show prospective buyers the glorious, five-layer repair job coddling the basement.